Top High Mileage Issues 1998-2011 Ford Ranger Truck

For More Info visit us at: http://1aau.to/h/cuZ/ These are all of the issues that you should check out or pay attention to when buying …

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  1. This video is a great guide to get my Ranger to 400k. My 98 has 275k miles. The engine was replaced at 50k by Ford, but everything else is holding up well. Except for the engine mounts which I'm replacing this week.

  2. I have a 2004 Ranger Edge I bought new. It has 33,000 miles on it. I'm retired and don't go very many places very often. Every 3 or 4 weeks to the grocery store or doctor appointment, etc. I put about 200-250 miles on it a year. I had the fuel pump replaced last year when it left me stranded. Sway bar links were shot and clunking, so I replaced them myself last year, too. With only 33,000 miles, I was surprised to find the ball joints squeaking and clunking. I bought new upper control arms with new ball joints and bushings and new lower ball joints. I haven't put them on yet. I'll replace the brake pads, too, when I do that job since they are original and getting a little thin. I'm 70 years old and really not eager to jack it up and crawl under it, but the fuel pump set me back almost $800 (including the tow truck,) so I'll have to do that job myself when I get psyched up to do it. Wasn't too happy about the fuel pump and suspension parts being worn out on such a low mileage vehicle, but it is what it is. Otherwise I'm still happy with the truck. I recommend other Ranger owners to check the drains at the bottoms of the doors for blockage. I heard sloshing and checked and the drains were clogged, trapping a couple gallons of water in the doors. I was finding the battery was weak from sitting so long, so I put a 20 watt solar panel in the bed hooked to a small controller and plugged into my cigarette lighter. I hung the controller on the back of the seat so I can see it from the kitchen window. If I see a green light, the battery is fully charged. No more dead battery and haven't had to replace it in six years.

  3. The ratchet costs more than the truck lol. Jk thanks for the information looking at an older ranger now

  4. Things I had issues with on my high mileage manual '07 4.0 Ranger:
    1. Plastic thermostat housing began leaking like crazy. Replaced with aftermarket diecast aluminum one.
    2. Both rear axle seals began leaking like crazy. Had to pull axle rods to replace.
    3. Front diiferential pinion seal began leaking like crazy. Fairly easy fix with the right tools.

    Other things ive replaced: spark plugs, fuel injectors, fuel pump, starter, door handles (they snapped off in the cold. replaced with steel ones), coil packs and cables, starter.

    I have also fully deleted the A/C system and use a shorter serpentine belt.

    Also note, the starters on these trucks on the 4×4 manual models are kind of a nightmare to change. You have to bring the starter out through the engine bay by disconnecting the driveshaft U-joint to make it squeeze through. It will fit through the bottom of the truck past the frame but if you try to do it the wrong way you could get it jammed in there and you will really be screaming.

  5. I am an older guy and a mechanic also. That is one of the first things I do when I buy a used vehicle. Change all the fluids, that way I have a positive starting point from which to work.

  6. I bought a 2003 Ranger FX4 with a 4.0L SOHC and a manual transmission with 209k a little over two years ago. So far I have replaced the door stops on the driver's side rear half-door, the tie rod ends, oil pan, thermostat housing, transfer case shift motor, and shocks. It now has 225k miles on it and is going strong. It's always had a bit of a rattle when going down the road and has always made a random tick noise when it is revved up (doesn't speed up with the RPM increase). Getting new front wheel bearings this week. I have to say that I am surprised at how few issues it has given me, and I don't treat it gently. As a note, the 4.0 motor has been known to be prone to timing chain guide failures. My own truck had bits of a timing chain cassette in the oil pan, presumably from a previous failure. They are not easy to replace either, and can cause critical engine failure.

  7. I just bought a high milage 1999 ford ranger 280000 miles..but it runs super smooth and strong and clean…i think it might have been engine rebuilt..i hope ..engine is clean as hell…

  8. I have a 2000 ranger. Runs well. Some front suspension parts are worn out. I'll get to it. All fluids in the truck have been changed out. Good truck and video. From Sacramento

  9. I have a '98 ranger XLT 2.5, 5sp, 2 wheel drive. The engine idles high until I come to a complete stop have it in 1st gear and let up on the brake, then the idle drops down to normal. If the rear ABS is unplugged it runs and idles normally, but then I have no speedometer. Rear ABS has been replaced, as well as the catalytic converter, both 02 sensors, EGR VALVE, EGR sensor, DPFE, IAC valve(motorcraft), Idle position sensor, valve body cleaned, MAF sensor and air temperature sensor, and EVAP canister valve sensor. The only item not replaced is the EVAP purge valve. I've gone through all vacuum lines as well as replaced PCV valve. Would a small a leak between the exhaust manifold and CAT pipe cause this? Last time engine light came on it was P0171, this was with all the new parts. Light has since gone out on it's own.
    Please help! The high idle makes it difficult to downshift and is not doing my engine any favors and it is annoying has hell and killing my fuel mileage.

  10. Videos like this are also a great way to learn what needs to be maintained on your vehicle. Thanks!

  11. The corroded battery was exactly the same on my 06 ranger to a Tee lol. Barely had enough wire with the new terminal fitting.

  12. Really good video. Only thing to add would be cost of some other repairs if needed. This is important because replacing a Ranger throw out bearing requires dropping the transmission, replacing the valve cover gasket requires removing the intake manifold. It would useful to find out if other brands or models have the same design flaws that Ford Ranger seems to have.

  13. Really impressed. Thanks for sharing your wisdom on this. I’ll be going through a few checks on my Ranger now.

  14. Thanks Sue!

    I bought a 2000 Mazda B2500 SX in Feb 2020. And haven’t really touched it other than an oil change and replace the battery and wipers.

    So going to use this video as reference once all this snow melts for #snowmageddon2022.

  15. I own a 2001 Ranger with the 2.5 I’ve had it since 124,000 and it’s got 207,000 miles on it now and I’ve never had an issue with it. I have the manual transmission, I keep mine maintained. I’ve got an 89 Ranger with 307,000 never had an issue with it either..key is routine maintenance.

  16. This lady speaks with so much passion and precision. She is cute too, that was an awesome video. Is there a series on restoring a ford ranger of this vintage??? I wonder if this lady could oblige us with one.
    Bravo, the best video of the year by miles and miles!!!!

  17. Always a risk buying older vehicles. Most people run them until they start showing problems and then sell. Change all the fluids. Diff and trans. Tune up. Should serve you for a long time after a nice tune up.

  18. The high mileage don't make the Is oil dirty Driving too long before an oil change gets the oil to look like that

  19. Yeah try to get the hydraulic fluid cap off the hydraulic clutch reservoir lol I cannot turn mine off and I cannot pull it off with a screwdriver I'm trying to Is 2007 FX4 4.0 5 speed ranger… Can I get the hydraulic clutch copper off to fill it with fluid lol don't know if it turns off or if it's a pop off

  20. Incredible video! So thorough and such good explanation and walk-through of easy to fix yet important maintenance work. I just bought an 09 Ranger with 87k miles and I know I'm going to have to replace the fluids. Now I know exactly where to look and what to expect. Sue does such a good job!!

  21. Sure glad you mentioned the dreaded "cam synchronizer" chriping. I replaced new belts, tensioner and idler. The chirping still ALIVE! A few years back, I replace new clutch and rebuilt the transmission. I might have some dirty spot or have some fork sticking out, it is a 4X4. Got tired of the dreaded chirping, removed the the drive lines and T-case, Y pipe and off the tranny. I decided to give a new clutch kit, installed and got everything back together. THE FRICKING CHIRPING still ALIVE!

    Last weekend, decided to replace the leaky driver side vale cover. Interesting, the INTAKE had to come off. What a great time to check on the "CAM SYNCRONIZER", it was a paint to get it off (5.5mm or 7/32" at Home Depot). Squirted some oil between the pointer and let the oil sipped down the engine. THE CHIRPING IS DEAD! THANK A MILLION, SUE!

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